Scenes from the Field: Moving to Istanbul
2 Sept 2020, Istanbul
I cannot believe I have finally arrived in this magnificent city after months planning, packing, and moving. My body is exhausted from the stress and hassle of the last week. I have learned my lesson, however. I must never own more than two suitcases full of stuff. Anything extra is an unnecessary burden.
Back to Istanbul. The view of the Bosporus from my flat is stunning. I had difficulty sleeping last night because of the heat, eventually migrating to the living room so I could sleep under the AC. It was 31 Celsius during the day, not what I am used to in the damp and dark UK. It felt so calming to wake up to real sun this morning. I have missed its golden rays. I went for a short walk in the early evening to scope out the neighborhood. I realized that I am on the edge of Beyoğlu and Beşiktaş, only a five-minute walk from Dolmabahçe Palace. It was so wonderful walking around that area again, as if I never left. The excitement of this move is starting to kick in.
In many ways, the city hasn’t changed much despite covid. Many people were wearing masks but that’s about it in terms of precautions. Some cafes had small hand sanitizer bottles on their tables. Otherwise, the streets were bustling with people, the bars and cafes were full without any social distancing. Traffic was heavy. At one point, walking on the main road that connects the two areas, all I could hear was honking from drivers trying to cut corners. A small masjid stuffed between bars and cafes in one of the side streets caught my attention as I passed a grocery store. It was amazing to see people drinking beer only a few feet away from the masjid. The range of dress varied from women in halter tops and miniskirts to women in headscarves (hijab) and long dresses.
I passed by a man playing the buzuk near the bookstore on the corner. No one seemed to pay him any attention. I tried to identify the tune, but his playing was too soft for me to make out all the notes properly. Either way, his playing added charm to the bustling street on this evening in Beşiktaş.
5 Sept 2020, Istanbul
Very full day with Pinar looking at flats around the area where I am currently staying for my Airbnb. I found one on the same street and I think I am going to go for it. It has three bedrooms and I love the location. This neighbourhood is close to everything and yet feels safe and far from the bustle of Taksim. It is walking distance to Taksim square (less than 10 minutes) and walking distance in the opposite direction and you are on the edge of the Bosporus. Only a five-minute walk downhill and I can take the tram and stay on one line all the way to Fatih and the historical peninsula. Remarkably, the flat is also only a 20-minute walk to Besiktas Meydan, where I anticipate meeting many musicians and artists for coffee and interviews. The furniture is a bit old and there is no view other than beige blocks of apartments, but I think for the price and location it is worth sacrificing a view of the Bosporus I have been daydreaming about for the past year in anticipation of my move to Istanbul.
After viewing some flats, Pinar and I had a coffee at Mustapha Pasha, a famous coffee and lokum shop in Beyoğlu. No musicians were playing in the locations on Istiklal I noted two years ago when I came for a preliminary fieldtrip. For example, I remember several Syrian bands used to play in front of the French Institute (pictured below, view from Mustapha Pasha terrace). No bands played today. In fact, I didn’t see a single musician on Istiklal when Pinar and I strolled to the end past Galata Tower. I suppose the Corona virus has halted street music at the moment.
I also kept my ears open for languages being used. The most I heard was Arabic and Turkish, especially walking down Istiklal. Although not sure whether these were locals or tourists, I noted that Arabic was very prevalent. Everyone was wearing a mask. Whenever we spoke with people to ask questions about various things like where to find the photoshop, they immediately started talking about the current economic situation, the jacked-up prices of cars in particular.
At night, we sat near the window in my Airbnb with a charming view of the other side of the Bosporus to relax after a long day. Istanbul sparkled from across the water. We could hear Arabic music blasting from one of the ferries moving down the strait. I think this is a tour boat for Arab tourists who want to have dinner on the water. I will definitely need to check out this tour once I am more settled. For now, I am just grateful for the opportunity to live and explore this magical city that never sleeps.
View from Airbnb